No matter who you ask, it’s very clear that Mama Tofu, the 96 year old matriarch of the Ngxingxolo Village is the star of the show – after all she started the tour that exposes visitors to the customs and ways of the Xhosa people many moons ago. She is a vessel of knowledge that provides insight into Xhosa culture in a hands-on way.

At 96 Mama Tofu’s enthusiasm and energy show no signs of winding down. Along with her daughter Zinzi, Mama Tofu is the lens through which visitors can experience life in this Xhosa village and learn a little bit about Xhosa beliefs and customs. On arrival we’re greeted by a group of girl dancers and some older women beating cowhide drums and singing. Once the welcome party has concluded Zinzi tells us what it means to be Xhosa for her. She is well versed in Xhosa customs and history, something she has no doubt inherited from her mother, who beams with pride about her heritage.

From here the hands-on experience really gets underway as we learn how to grind maize meal – a household chore not for the fainthearted. For something a little less demanding there’s also the opportunity to prepare umngqusho, a staple Xhosa dish consisting samp and beans. This will be part of our lunch later in the afternoon. But before we can get too carried away thinking about lunch we first learn about the importance of the Kraal, an enclosure where animals are slaughtered for various traditional ceremonies. These can be anything from male and female passages into adulthood, marriage, the arrival of a newborn, and Lobola negotiations (dowry). Many other important discussions take place in the Kraal so that the ancestors are involved in these conversations and are able to offer their guidance. This then is a revered space that connects two worlds and is integral to practicing customs and rituals.

Once we have learned about the importance of the Kraal and its place at the centre of Xhosa rites, it’s time to sit down to a lunch that brings together traditional Xhosa cuisine with popular local favourites. In addition to the umngqusho we helped prepare earlier we are treated to ithanga (butternut), umfino (a vegetarian dish that is a mix of greens), umlweqwa (free range chicken) and Isinkwa samanzi (bread prepared with water) and amagwinya (voetkoek).

Before we leave there's one more activity waiting for us. We are invited to join a beadwork session and leave with our own creations. When it comes time for us to say goodbye, Mama Tofu’s team of cultural dancers who had welcomed us, sing us off with traditional Xhosa hymns that will reverberate within us for a long time to come.