Encircled by Newtown, Marshalltown, Fordsburg and West Gate, it’s easy to think that the unassuming Ferreirasdorp is an extension of either of these suburbs. In truth Ferreirasdorp is regarded as the oldest part of Johannesburg and was the first camp site for gold hungry farmers and prospectors hoping to make their fortunes. Over time it has expanded outwards to create the surrounding neighbourhoods and the many others beyond them. The area has continued to stake a claim on South Africa’s past and in order to unearth the wealth of history that lies hidden beneath the bustle of present day Johannesburg we sign up for one of Bongani’s walking tours through Ferreirasdorp.

From Sci-Bono in neighbouring Newtown we make our way towards Commissioner Street. Soon we encounter a sculptural installation that forms part of the Johannesburg Development Agency’s (JDA) Gateway Project, an initiative that marks the various entrances into the CBD with public artworks. This particular artwork takes inspiration from the hundreds of pigeons that takeover the small square daily. Produced by Gerhard Marx, it consists of several sculptures that resemble origami pigeons permanently grounded on the square, now commonly referred to as Pigeon Square.

Around the corner we arrive at the oldest Chinese community in Johannesburg. The area has enjoyed a renewed interest from both the Chinese population and other Jo’burg residents, as a destination for dining and shopping. The annual New Year’s celebrations have also become a huge draw card, pulling large crowds who are treated to a fun filled day of food, festivities and fireworks.

We resume our walk heading for the Magistrates Court where an absurd nugget of history sits in plain sight. Directly opposite the court is the famous Chancellor House where Oliver Tambo and Nelson Mandela ran their law practice. The most important thing, as those in real estate will tell you, is ”Location, location, location”. It must have been a hard pill for the powers that be to have the only black law firm in Johannesburg undermining them from such close quarters. Today Chancellor House is a side walk museum where pedestrians can browse through the space’s timeline. Opposite this is a sculpture by Marco Cianfanelli, modelled on Bob Gosani’s famous photograph of Madiba shadow boxing. At the base of the work are remnants of candle wax and wilted flower petals, a sad reminder of the shrine erected to the world icon upon his death.

On the corner of Ntemi Piliso and Fox Street we visit a traditional African medicine store run by an Indian owner. A peculiar thing for our tour guide to mention, but as we learn, this is a sign of the apartheid government’s laws prohibiting black South Africans from owning property. This becomes more evident when one considers that most of the property in the area is still in the hands of the original families. At Minty’s, a renowned material shop, we learn just how well the Indian shop owners have adapted to the needs of their clientele. At first glance Minty’s is modest with a sprinkling of several clothing items on display, but a floor beneath we discover a wide-ranging selection of African printed cloth including those worn by Pedi, Venda, Tsonga and Xhosa speaking groups. And with a growing pan-African population, the owners have started stocking printed cloth from as far afield as Malawi and Mozambique.

We make a brief stop in front of the sculpture of Walter and Albertina Sisulu on Diagonal Street to discuss the couple’s famed patronage of various children’s charities. The figures sit facing each other and deliberately dwarf passers-by who often fulfil the sculptor’s wishes that people should interact with the sculpture by sitting on the laps of the couple. It’s been a rewarding day of digging up the history that paves Ferreirasdorp’s streets, but before we head back to base we break at Royal Chicken - an Indian restaurant tucked away from the weekend shopping frenzy of downtown Jozi.